We recently took a long weekend to visit Petra, Clark Griswold style. We packed up the Volvo wagon and entered the Kingdom of Jordan. After the surprisingly easy time crossing the border we soon found ourselves driving up steep narrow switchbacks toward Mount Nebo, the peak from which it is said Moses first saw the "Promised Land". From there we continued on to Madaba, home to a spectacular 6th century mosaic map of the Holy Land.
Madaba is also where we began our journey south along the Kings' Highway. An ancient route winding, ascending, descending, ascending even more. Twisting and turning across fertile plateaus, down steep switchbacks into deep wadis, past crusader castles, and through towns populated with happy waving children, even a brief bout with some road construction, all made for an amazing drive. Even the occasional military checkpoint was a pleasant experience. Every soldier had a genuine smile and "Welcome to Jordan." for us. While passing a military base all but one of the soldiers stopped their target practice to all wave at the crazy western family in there dirty blue station-wagon. The one that didn't wave scared the shit out of Kate, "Look. A shooting range." BANG. "AAHH!". As an unexpected bonus, we got to see some snow banks and even a couple of kids sledding on a distant hilltop. The Kings' Highway was probably the best 6 hours I've ever spent in a car. Though two words of caution to those planning a similar road trip, SPEED BUMPS. They are everywhere, frequent, and rarely well marked.
It was dark when we arrived at our beautiful hotel just outside the entrance to Petra. After checking in we ate a quick dinner and crashed into bed. Early the next morning we ate a quick breakfast and rushed to the main entrance of the historical site in hopes we would beat most of the giant tour groups in. From the front gate we opted for a quick horse ride to the entrance of the siq, the narrow canyon road, leading into the actual city of Petra. Through the siq, there are channels carved into the sides of the cliffs that once funneled water into the city. And then you get your first glimpse of "The Treasury". After that you just become a broken record of wows. Throughout the rest of that day we walked and climbed all over Petra. We got off our feet only for the slightly nerve-racking donkey ride up the steep climb to the "Monastery". We did come back down on our own though.
The next day we took the much shorter "Desert Highway". It was significantly quicker and easier but drastically less interesting of a drive. Much of it was like what North Dakota after a century long drought would look like. The highlight for the drive back would probably be the speed trap that we got stopped for:
Us: (sheepishly) "Hello."
Jordanian Police Officer: "Welcome to Jordan."
Us: "Thank you."
JPO: "Do you speak Arabic?"
Us: "No."
JPO: "Ok. Thank you. You can go. Welcome to Jordan."
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